By Lynn West
Pass by those supermarket aisles overflowing with turkeys and hams, and shop for local seafood instead. Living in the South Sound, surrounded by waters of the Puget Sound, we don’t have to look at a label to know the source of our seafood. We can meet commercial fishermen hauling their fresh catches into the Boston Harbor Marina or at the Olympia Seafood Company and learn from the “fishmongers” new ways to prepare fresh fish. Take seafood appetizers to holiday parties, serve tasty entrees at home, or give delicious gifts, often without lifting a finger.
Boston Harbor Marina
When I stopped in at the Marina on a cold rainy morning, the aroma of Clam Chowder filled the air. A retired couple from Lacey were ladling up a cup for lunch. I overheard them complimenting the chef, Andrew Hook, on the thick richness of the chowder. I tried to convince Andrew to share the recipe. Instead, he said, “I’ll make you a deal. I’ll give you the recipe for the popular Salmon Sisters’ Smoked Salmon Spread. We sell it in the store, but folks may want to make it at home.”
In addition to the Sisters’ spread, the Marina offers an array of Smoked Salmon and the new favorite, Peppered Smoked Tuna. Late for a party, your appetizer or hostess gift is quickly covered.
Kate Foster-Keddie, the new Marina manager, said seafood sales are strong. “Since Thanksgiving,” she told me, “salmon and crab have topped the list, but oysters have been so popular, we advise ordering them in advance.” Pam Troutman, a long time Boston Harbor resident, who worked at the Marina in the early 80s, agreed. “We were selling out of fish at the holidays even then.” Perhaps call ahead if you have a large order.
By the seafood cases, I met Jamaal Byrd, one of three commercial fishermen currently moored at the Marina. I asked him what he was delivering. He smiled and said, “ Nothing today! I am trading out the salmon gear on my boat The Salmon Slave for over a hundred crab pots.” As a member of the Squaxin tribe, his love of fishing began early. “I have fished these inlets since I was a boy,” he told me,” but I always dreamed of becoming a commercial fisherman.” The Marina is one of the top venues for his catches because he is grateful that Don McHugh, the former manager, helped him launch his career in 2008.
As I was leaving, I ran into Linda Allmendinger, who was ordering crab for her Salmon Pinwheels hors d’ oeuvre. “Most customers don’t remember their childhood on these docks as I do, “ she said, “but I bet they would agree that this is a great place to come during the holidays.”
Olympia Seafood Company
I visit the Marina often, yet I look at the exterior of the Olympia Seafood Company (OSC) daily. No, I don’t live on Percival Landing, but I do have a beautiful Mary McCann watercolor of this iconic building. My husband must have had ulterior motives giving me this gift when we moved to Olympia. Ten years and many seafood dinners later, we enjoy every visit to this “one of a kind” fish market.
Kira DeRito and her husband Tony have been the “Fishmongers” at OSC since 2000. Asked about their continued success, Kira said, “Fish is our thing. That’s all we do. A store selling only fish is so different from a supermarket that carries some fish.” She elaborated, “ We gather the best catches from our local waters and from the Pacific Ocean. We also have fish flown in from Nantucket (scallops), Sea of Cortez (prawns) and Hawaii (Ahi Tuna, Opah, Ono).” Her brothers, Gabe and Jacob Lowe, commercial fishermen in Westport, are currently supplying them with Spot Shrimp and other seasonal favorites.
“Half of our customers buy shellfish, usually crab, for a main dish at this time of year,” Kira told me. “Some are moving away from heavier meat offerings to fish, while others prepare traditional seafood meals every year. Lingcod, perch, and sole are among some of the popular choices for the Feast of Seven Fishes,” she explained.
However, if you want an easy “one fish meal,” try the White Miso Black Cod (aka Sable or Butterfish). “For a rushed evening this is a great meal,” Kira said. “We prepare the White Miso marinade and carry it in the store.” For other “in a hurry” dinners, the DeRitos make amazing Crab Cakes and Salmon or Cod burger patties.
For “foodie friends,” consider a gift of Seasoning Blends by Northwest Chef, The Grinch Hot Sauce by EZ Foods, Marino’s canned seafood from Westport or Ekone smoked oysters from Willapa. All are available at Olympia Seafood Company. Sign up for recipes and news of recent catches on the website, and be sure to grab one of their punch cards.
Remember this year you don’t have to prepare a “gobbler”; instead just be “crabby” for the holidays.
