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Home Food and Art Not Your Dorm-Room Ramen – Tradition, Experience Make for an Authentic Experience...

Not Your Dorm-Room Ramen – Tradition, Experience Make for an Authentic Experience at Kizuki Ramen & Izakaya

By
Nikki McCoy
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Somehow, Kizuki Ramen & Izakaya must have known they were coming to the right place.

Because in Olympia, we tend to warm our blood with a good bowl of soup—and often, a good nip of booze, too. These are the go-to comforts that get us through the overcast days; the staples that relieve our colds and soothe our souls.

thurston first bankSo when I learned a ramen house opened downtown, complete with cocktails, I knew – on behalf of my fellow Olympians – I had to investigate.

On the ground floor of the 123 4th apartment building, Kizuki officially opened its doors in early July.

Atmosphere and Authenticity

Kizuki Ramen & Izakaya
Diners of all ages delight in slurping the delicious homemade broth and noodles at Kizuki Ramen & Izakaya. Photo credit: Kate Scriven

I had a sit-down with Rhian Peterman, Kizuki’s general manager, to learn more. The first thing I wanted to know was what it meant to have “the most authentic ramen experience,” a trait the chain, which has eight U.S. locations and multiple overseas locations, is known for.

“It mainly has to do with the dining experience but also for the house-made broths,” he explained. “Likewise our partnership with the Japanese parent stores gives guests the opportunity to try a myriad of regional ramen cuisines that are done with the same integrity that is offered overseas.”

The way the ramen experience works is customers choose a base broth and noodle. For instance, Spicy Ramen, a pork broth flavored with a house-made blend of chilies, garlic, and spices. The dish comes with pork, noodles, and some simple accoutrements, and can be filling and delightful on its own. Or the dish can be customized with additional noodles and toppings, such as tofu, pork belly, or roasted seaweed. All are served with the traditional soft-boiled egg.

When asked his favorite ramen dish, Peterman was quick to answer: Yizu Shio, with French sea salt, Japanese citrus, pork and chicken base.

Kizuki’s Chicago location earned the 2016 Best of Chicago Best Ramen award, where Yizu Shio was described by Chicago Magazine, as “chock-full of delicate chuka noodles, and has a clean, citrus-forward broth, a reprieve from the fatty richness that often overwhelms ramen dishes.”

olympia ramen noodle
Andras Jones, Rhian Peterman, and Josh Sumrow can be found behind the bar at Kizuki, where every guest is greeted with the Japanese phrase, “Irasshamase!” which means “come in” or “welcome!” Photo credit: Nikki McCoy.

Atmosphere and foodie-appeal is where the second part of the franchise’s name comes in: Izakaya.

“The best way to understand the concept of Izakaya is to equate it to a western style gastro-pub – a focus on great food and quality drinks,” explained Peterman.

And according to Wikipedia, Izakayas “are casual places for after-work drinking.”

Peterman noted they have received a warm welcome from the neighborhood and that the owners (based out of Bellevue) were already involved in a joint venture in Olympia and wanted to offer something to the community.

“Their mindset is to incorporate the community as best as possible, and what better way than with a restaurant?” he said.

Word on the street is the community agrees.

“Even before moving in, I was super intrigued to hear that a world-class noodle house was going to be in the building,” said Scott Geist, a tenant of the 123 4th building. “Since its opening, I’ve heard great things—it’s tasty, reasonably priced, great space, etc. I do like ramen and I definitely like the convenience. To me, it’s a cool option to have right downstairs.”

From Octopus Dumplings to Potato Croquette

olympia ramen
Takoyaki Octopus Dumplings may appear to move when first served. Don’t worry, it’s just the dried bonito flakes, Katsuobushi, reacting to the heat and steam of the Takoyaki. Photo courtesy: Nikki McCoy.

While the ramen can be as simple or sophisticated as you’d like, other menu items are worth a try too. Rice dishes are a nice option, such as Pork Shasu Don served with signature grilled chashu on a bed of rice drizzled with house-made sauce, and shredded seaweed and green onions.

For Izakaya food choices, I recommend the Potato Croquette – a deep-fried vegetable croquette drizzled with tonkotsu sauce. It’s very satisfying with a nice amount of light crisp and flavorful filling.

I also highly recommend the Takoyaki Octopus Dumplings. I’m not a food critic by any means, so I’m not sure if I’m even allowed to use the term “mouth feel,” but I have to say that the creamy texture and surprising light sweetness was super nice and delicious, with just a touch of salty flavor and hint of the occasional tentacle.

Next time, I’d like to try the Karaage Salad – crispy, juicy Japanese deep-fried chicken on a bed of lettuce greens, cucumber, and tomato.

Japan Meets New Orleans – Kizuki’s Craft Cocktail Program

What new restaurant in Olympia would be complete without offering a drink?

olympia ramen noodles
The Scotch Egg (pictured) is prepared with Glenlivet, luxardo maraschino, pear clove syrup, and egg white. Kizuki also has a variety of sakes and Japanese whiskeys. Photo credit: Nikki McCoy.

Completely unique to this Kizuki location, Peterman has made sure to implement a cocktail program from the ground up.

“What’s my inspiration for starting a cocktail program?” Peterman mused, “Because Olympia needs one. Aside from a couple of places, there’s not really one that focuses on, and executes, craft. Starting a restaurant of this style and incorporating a cocktail program from the beginning is needed for the momentum.”

Formerly a chef in Seattle and L.A., Peterman said the switch to cocktails was exciting because it gives him new flavor profiles to play with.

Try the Scotch Egg, prepared with Glenlivet, luxardo maraschino, pear clove syrup, and egg white or the Valerie, with Grey Goose, St. Germaine, lemon, and blackberries.

For Peterman, bringing staff (60 employees!) into the equation is a big part of his plan, not only in the restaurant, where he said he found a “myriad of people who are involved in different facets of the community,” but also in the bar, where he works with bartenders on creating signature and seasonal cocktails.

One such effort is the Kokonatsu, made with Nigori Sake, coconut, yuzu juice, and egg white. Bartender Andras Jones describes the drink, and the menu style, as “Japan Meets New Orleans.”

And speaking of sake, the bar has a nice array of cold sake, both filtered and not. I hope that more hot sakes are added to the menu to complement the selection of Japanese whiskeys.

Like any establishment, Kizuki is a work-in-progress. Peterman plans to implement changes as needed, and that a late-night happy hour is in the works.

My plan, and I invite fellow Olympians to join, is to slurp, sip, and repeat.

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