Biscuits and gravy, affectionately known as S.O.S. (“Stuff” on a Shingle) to many of us folks from more rural parts of the state, has been a go to breakfast option of mine for years. Whether it was in a favorite greasy spoon in Port Orchard, a fancy restaurant in Bellingham or at home with loved ones, something about the dish always comforted me more than most standard morning fare. But nothing could have prepared me for the inevitable problem when traveling overseas – absolutely no biscuits and gravy.
It hit me like a wrecking ball while pondering the menu at a Parisian bakery. I had been in France for three weeks and felt the need to reconnect with my all-American roots but how? McDonalds were everywhere and just about every American thing I could want had a convenient European knock off. But all I could think about was the comforting taste that a large plate of biscuits and gravy provides. I kept looking, asking locals but all I learned was that it didn’t exist in that part of the world. Even the idea of such a dish baffled those in the Land of Marianne.
I made a promise to myself. When I returned to Olympia, the first pitch I would send my editor’s way would be about this delicious dish. Why not get my fill while working? The idea was simple. Find tasty biscuits and gravy for a reasonable price in Thurston County. Based on friend’s recommendations, former experiences, Yelp reviews and online menu prices that were in my personal range, I set a list of six places to try – Martin Way Diner, Norma’s @ I-5, Pat’s Cafe, King Solomon’s Reef and New Moon Café.
Keep in mind I’m not a professional food critic and have absolutely zero experience in the food industry. These opinions are those of a “regular Joe” that just happens to have some thoughts on what tastes good.
NEW MOON CAFÉ
“Are you going to try New Moon Cafe?” my friend Noah asked after learning about my adventures. “Because I’ll go with if you do. I’ve been there before and it’s really good.”
New Moon was on the short list so I bumped it to the official list after Noah’s recommendation. One word… Paprika. Maybe I’m a purist and can’t handle the strange new world around me but the paprika on top of the gravy was a deal breaker. Noah went for the vegetarian biscuits and gravy option. He was pleasantly surprised that there were actual mushrooms in the sauce.
The staff was attentive and friendly in a busy hole-in-the-wall establishment in downtown Olympia. There are often long waits on weekends and even a Monday morning the tables were filling quickly. I’ll be coming back to New Moon Cafe, but ordering a menu item not so dear to my heart.
PAT’S CAFE
My wife really wanted to venture out with me early in the morning for a bite. Pat’s Cafe in Lacey was already on my list and just around the corner so it was an easy choice. Located literally in a converted house, Pat’s is ideal for those who want a quiet and relaxed dining experience. At times you could have heard a pin drop, in a good way.
The biscuits were on par with some of my other favorite meals. Pat’s equates to good food at a good price. I’ll be back for another round of breakfast for sure.
KING SOLOMON’S REEF
A late night dinner run landed me with three others at this downtown Olympia diner that feels like someone jammed five different former diners together to get the required amount of seating and table options. Don’t let the look of King Solomon’s Reef fool you, this place has some good food. The portions were large and this was one time I wanted to finish my meal but did not have the constitution to do so.
The biscuits had a bit of crunch on the edges, which I enjoyed thoroughly. Paired with hash browns, I was happy to have dined there.
MARTIN WAY DINER
With a name like Martin Way Diner, the biscuits and gravy have to be good, right? Right! Full disclosure time, this is one of my breakfast go to spots. When I get up early enough to eat out before my other obligations or when my father who has an appreciation for diner food that is greater to or equal that of my own, I head to Martin Way Diner.
Because of my past experiences this was my first spot and that may have been a mistake because it set the bar high for everywhere else. After 37 days in France and Iceland (Afram Island!) the biscuits and gravy was what the irresponsible doctor ordered. Fluffy biscuits, perfectly seasoned with creamy sausage gravy that could easily be eaten on its own if desired, I felt like I was back in America during and after that meal. The wait staff was courteous and relaxed just like you see when you close your eyes and imagine a diner. I’m a loyal fan that will be back.
NORMA’S @ I-5
It’s a time-honored tradition to save the best for last, is it not? Well we shouldn’t break with tradition should we? Norma’s was the second establishment I patronized based off of a recommendation from my friend who said, “I personally think that I make the best, but Norma’s is where I go when I don’t want to cook.”
After my experience at Martin Way Diner I was prepared to be under impressed. Norma’s was far and away the best meal I had in the course of writing this article. They don’t offer biscuits and gravy, instead you have to order the “I-5 Pile-up” which consists of biscuits, gravy, hash browns and eggs all piled together. In an attempt to make an honest comparison to the rest of the field I requested it “de-piled,” my word not theirs, so don’t expect them to understand what you are requesting right away if you use that phrasing.
The gravy was perfectly seasoned and there was plenty, but the biscuits made the meal. Homemade daily, the biscuits were fluffy in all the right ways with a tiny crunch on the sides. The portion was large but after the first taste I attacked it in a fashion that would have made my wonderful wife a bit embarrassed to be seen with me had I not been alone. While the price was a bit spendy, it was worth every bite.
