Neighborhood Notes: Page St. Cafe Serves Up Comfort Food Done Right

page st. cafe
Joel Hart (right), shown here with John, kept many of the staff members from the previous restaurant that occupied the space.
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By Giovanna Marcus

van dorm sponsorJoel Hart invites me back into the kitchen at the Page St. Cafe. He’s making béchamel sauce, the decadent mother sauce for their gravy, macaroni and cheese, and chicken and biscuit mix. While whisking equal parts butter and flour in a saucepan, he demonstrates the desired consistency, and then adds a gallon of milk heated to 175 degrees.

The restaurant is set up with a nod to the history of the 110 year-old building, with counter seating and about ten tables filling the floor. Several cooks move quickly inside the small, clean kitchen, perfectly in synch with each other so that they never crash, even during Sunday brunch.

page st cafe
Joel Hart has a deep interest in creating a family friendly space in his restaurant.

Page St. Cafe’s story starts with Hart riding his bike along Rogers Street, where, as a six-year-old, he often stopped in at Eddy’s, a tiny grocery store where he bought Swedish Fish and candy cigarettes. (This was back in the days when his parents founded the Olympia Waldorf School.)

As an adult, Hart returned to the spot that once housed Eddy’s, this time for breakfast at what was then Sage’s Brunch House. He had a nostalgic association with the historical building and loved going there to relax with friends. Meanwhile, after over 15 years as a professional cook, he opened Dino’s Coffee Bar on Harrison Street on Olympia’s west side in 2012.

When Sage’s owner announced her retirement, Hart, 34, was offered the chance to rent the space, and he signed the lease without even checking out the place. He says he wasn’t quite ready to become a full-on restauranteur, but opportunity struck, and like a true entrepreneur, he said yes.

After a total gutting and renovation of all plumbing, electrical, and floors, Page St. Cafe cut its ribbon for business in July.

“I’m not interested in creating multi-tiered international empires,” says Hart. “I’m more interested in creating  spaces to raise families in, creating opportunities for local kids to learn a lucrative trade, and be productive members of our communities.”

Hart has a deep interest in creating a family friendly space, complete with Batman placemats, although he says the toys had to go due to an unfortunate skateboarding incident. I don’t press for details.

page st cafe
A fresh vegetable scramble is served at Page St. Cafe.

Hart is also passionate about doing everything from scratch. It’s not an accident that there isn’t a freezer, microwave, or deep fryer in the cafe. This is considered outdated and practically unheard of by modern food industry standards, but Hart smiles slyly as he boasts that their poached eggs are the best you can get. They source local produce from Wobbly Cart, and use OlyKraut in their Rueben sandwiches. Hart gets excited when he talks about Sous-vide, a superb cooking method used to cook NY steaks, seafood streaks, and lamb.

Culinary delights from the breakfast menu include the Page St. Tartane, an open-faced croissant topped with eggs, cheddar, and choice of bacon, ham or sausage patties; or the Chai French Toast, which comes with butter, real maple syrup and fresh fruit. A decadent and necessary option is the Page St. Poutine, comprised of grilled red potatoes topped with bacon bits, white gravy, and melted cheddar cheese.

page st cafe
Page St. Cafe opened in July and serves up meals seven days a week.

Those seeking serious comfort food will love it here, while those looking for lighter meal can opt for the Roasted Beet and Fennel Salad, among other not-so-difficult choices. Vegan options abound, and for those with wheat sensitivies, sandwich can be ordered to come with the most perfect gluten-free bread from Essential Baking Company in Seattle. There is also a fine selection of beer, wine, and local hard cider.

The food is “authentically American,” with a hint of influence from the three years Hart spent living and cooking in Spain. “They treat food differently there. The relationship people have with food is different,” says Hart, speaking to the level of care that goes into food preparation in Europe. It’s somewhat of a rarity for a restaurant to be open all day from breakfast to dinner, and Hart’s made it enticing for people to linger (though you won’t find wifi here).

He kept much of the Sage’s staff on board for the new venture, while bringing in a host of new, smiling talent. This cafe’s waitstaff are hip without a hint of snootiness, and genuinely kind. When I call to ask a question for this article, the server who answers the phone gushes about how Hart is the best boss in town. It’s clear that they’re happy, having fun, and enjoying the open space and its big windows, as well as the jams on the stereo that keep them moving at a steady pace as they pouring bottomless coffee and dish up some of the tastiest, freshest, most earnest fare in town.

page st. cafe
Joel Hart (right), shown here with John, kept many of the staff members from the previous restaurant that occupied the space.

Zany, thoughtful, and masterful in the kitchen, Hart credits the people in his life for helping him get the unexpected project of a new restaurant going. He’s had loyal customers who he now calls best friends, and lots of help along the way from supportive family and fans.

“Not to sound cliche, but it’s really been a community effort to get this going. I can’t take much of the credit for it. Well—except for staying up 17 or 18 hours a day to make it work,” says Joel.  He looks around as the dinner time crowd start filling the tables and pride at the family friendly space he’s created shows.

As for the future, Joel has one thing to ask the citizens of Olympia: “Who likes skeeball and Donkey Kong?” Let him know when you visit the Page St. Cafe. You’ll likely find him behind the counter cooking something delicious.

 

 

page st cafe
No deep fryer or microwave can be found at Page St. Cafe.

Page St. Cafe

903 Rogers St. NW

Olympia, WA 98502

360-878-8490

info@pagestcafe.com

Follow Hart and Page St. Cafe on Facebook.

Hours – Monday through Saturday from 6:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m. and Sunday from 8:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m.

 

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